Thursday, 16 January 2014

How to Use a Windows Installer Disc to Back Up Your Files When Your Computer Won’t Boot







If Windows won’t boot, recovering your files can be a headache. You do n0t have to pull the hard drive or use a Linux live CD – you can use a Windows installer disc to quickly back up your files.

We have included steps for both Windows 8 and Windows 7 here – the process is basically the same on each. You can use a Windows 7 disc to back up files from a Windows 8 system or vice versa.
Boot From a Windows Installer Disc

First, insert a Windows installer disc (or a USB drive with the Windows installer on it) into your computer and restart your computer. If everything is working properly, you will see a “Press any key to boot from CD or DVD” message. Press a key to enter the installer. If you do not see this screen, you may need to change the boot settings in your computer’s BIOS.



Click the Next option and select Repair Your Computer. You will see this option at the bottom-left corner of the window, whether you are using a Windows 7 or Windows 8 installer disc.



If you are using a Windows 8 installer disc, select Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > Command Prompt.



If you are using a Windows 7 installer disc, select the Restore your computer using a system image you created earlier option, click Next, click Cancel, and click Cancel again.



You will see the System Recovery Options window – click Command Prompt to launch a Command Prompt window.



When you see a Command Prompt, type notepad and press Enter to launch a Notepad window. Click File and select Open in the Notepad window.



Ensure you select the All Files option at the bottom of the window, and then click the Computer option.

You can use this Open dialog as if it were a Windows Explorer window – select files and you’ll be able to copy and paste them elsewhere. If you connect a USB drive or removable hard drive to your computer, you will be able to copy-paste files onto it.



Do not double-click any files or Notepad will try to open them, possibly freezing. If Notepad freezes on you, go back to the Command Prompt window and type taskmgr to launch the Task Manager. You can end the frozen Notepad task and re-launch Notepad.



Once you are done copying your files off your hard drive, you can close the windows and shut down your computer. Or, if you plan on reinstalling Windows anyway, you can now begin performing a clean installation with your files safely backed up.

Windows XP Version of Microsoft Security Essentials to be Discontinued








As the deadline for Windows XP’s ‘End of Life’ continues to grow closer, Microsoft has taken another step forward in cutting out support for the aging operating system. Starting April 8, the Windows XP version of Microsoft Security Essentials will also be discontinued in tandem with support for XP.

The following information update was recently added to the support page about the ‘End of Life’ for Windows XP…

From the Microsoft Support Page: After April 8, 2014, technical assistance for Windows XP will no longer be available, including automatic updates that help protect your PC. Microsoft will also stop providing Microsoft Security Essentials for download on Windows XP on this date.

This is another nail in XP’s coffin via the Microsoft hammer for those who have been hoping for a last-minute reprieve from Microsoft. If you are one of the people choosing to hold out, your only options for anti-virus protection after April 8th will be via third-party security vendors.

How to Force Your PC to Keep Its Private IP Address








There may be times when you need your PC to retain the same local IP address every time it boots up. Forwarding ports, sharing content on your network, and other things can all be made easier when your computer’s IP address never changes.

Photo by felixtriller.
DHCP

DHCP stands for Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol and is the recommended method for forcing your computer to use and reuse the same local IP address. You probably already use DHCP a lot more than you realize. Every home router utilizes DHCP, and anytime you jump on to a Wi-Fi or wired network, you are more than likely obtaining an IP address through DHCP.

Since your router is already handing out IP addresses through DHCP, all we need to do is configure a DHCP reservation on it. DHCP reservations work by binding an IP address to your system’s MAC address.

After creating the reservation, your router knows to only hand out that particular IP address to the system with the corresponding MAC address. Even if it never sees that MAC address again, it will continue to reserve that IP address. Anytime the system with that MAC address comes on to the network, the router will automatically assign it the correct IP address.

The only problem is, not all routers support the configuration of DHCP reservations. On some routers (older ones, mainly), DHCP is used but you may not have any control over what IP addresses it hands out to each computer on your network. For those of you following this guide with routers that don’t support DHCP reservations, you can skip ahead to the section on configuring static IP’s.

Every router manufacturer is going to have a slightly different way to configure DHCP reservations, but it should go something like this:

First, we need to figure out the IP address of our router, so we can go in and configure it. Bring up a command prompt (type cmd into the Start menu) and type ipconfig.

You’ll need to look for the Default Gateway IP address.



If you have trouble with the command line or just prefer to find the information with the GUI, you can navigate to Control Panel > Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center > Change adapter settings.



Once you’re in that menu, right-click on your network adapter > Status > Details.

In the details menu, you’ll see your default gateway listed.



Now that you know your router’s IP address, type it into a browser to get to the configuration menu.



Your router should prompt you for a password, like in the screenshot above. If you’ve previously configured a password for your router, enter it and click OK. If not, then it should still be at the default value. Linksys and a lot of other routers use a blank username and the password “admin” for authentication. If that doesn’t work, consult your manual or Google for the default password.

Depending on the type of router you’re using, you may have to fish around a bit for the DHCP settings. On Linksys, the DHCP settings are on the first page when you login. Regardless of the type of router you have, your DHCP page will look something similar to this:



As indicated in the screenshot above, click on DHCP Reservation. You’ll be brought to a screen like this:



This menu already has the MAC addresses, IP addresses, and hostnames populated. It makes things easier because all you have to do is select the desired system, pick an IP address, and click “Add Clients”. When the settings are finished, you’ll see them listed under “Clients Already Registered”, as seen in the screenshot above.

If your router doesn’t automatically populate the MAC addresses for you and makes you put it in yourself, you can get your MAC address the same way we got the default gateway address earlier.



Once you have your settings configured and saved, your system(s) should now start pulling the same local IP address all the time.
Static IP Addresses

If you don’t have the option to configure DHCP, or just need your PC to keep its IP for a limited amount of time, setting a static IP address will be the way to go. Open up the Control Panel and click on Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center > Change adapter settings.

Right-click on your network adapter, and go to Properties.



In the Properties menu, highlight “Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and click Properties.



In this menu, you’ll be able to set your IP address. The subnet mask field should automatically populate once your address is entered, and you can use the methods above to find your default gateway address. Be sure to stay in the same subnet as your router (in most cases, 192.168.1.X). Pick an address high enough that your router won’t ever try to hand it out via DHCP.



You can find the DNS server settings in your router settings (see the screenshot below for an example) or use Google’s DNS servers – 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4.

On a Linksys router, this information is located in the “Status” tab. All other routers should be similar.

Beginner Geek: How to Configure Your Router








If you have Internet access, you probably have a router — and your router has its own settings screens full of options. Everyone should know how to use their router’s web interface, if only to configure their Wi-Fi security settings.

Some of the options you may find on your router include parental controls, Internet connection time limits, and status pages that show you who’s connected to your Wi-Fi networks. These options are useful for managing your home network.
Accessing Your Router’s Web Interface

First of all, you’ll need to access your router’s settings interface through your web browser. Routers are already connected to your network, so they can make their settings available on any local networked device by providing an interface you can access via a web browser.

This is as simple as plugging your router’s IP address into your web browser’s address bar and pressing Enter. If your have your router’s manual, you’ll find your router’s default IP address in the manual.

If you don’t have your router’s manual or model number at hand, there’s still an easy way to locate your router’s web interface. In Windows, open the Control Panel and click View network status and tasks under Network and Internet. Click your network connection’s name.



Click the Details button in the Status window and look at the address to the right of “IPv4 Default Gateway.” Your router functions as your network gateway, so this should be your router’s IP address.



Plug this IP address into your web browser’s address bar and press Enter to access the web interface.


Signing In

You’ve now successfully accessed your router’s web interface and should see it in your web browser. Each router manufacturer creates its own interface, and they can even vary from one router model to another. Your router’s interface will look different from the one in the screenshots below, but the concepts should be the same.

Depending on your router, you may be immediately confronted with a login screen or you may be allowed to view some status information first. Either way, you’ll have to log in with the appropriate username and password before you can make any settings changes here. This prevents other people on your network from being able to change the settings without your permission. You can even set a custom password so no one but you can log in and change these settings.

You’ll need to know your router’s username and password to continue. If you don’t know them, check your router’s manual or consult a website like routerpasswords.com, which lists the default usernames and passwords for many different routers. You’ll need to know your router’s model number to find this information.


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If you’ve set a custom password on the router and can’t remember it, you can reset the password and gain access. Use your router’s reset button to reset its custom password — and all other settings — to the factory default settings. You’ll need physical access to the router to do this.
Configuring Your Router

You’re now logged into the router’s web interface, so you can access and change the router’s settings. Click from page to page to change settings, but be sure to click the Apply or Save button on each page after changing any settings to apply your changes.

For example, if you want to change your Wi-Fi settings and set a custom network name, passphrase, etc., you’ll likely find these options under Wi-Fi or Wireless settings.



To lock the router’s settings and prevent other people from changing them, look for a Password option. You may find this under Advanced > Password. Here you can set a new password to prevent other people from changing your custom settings.


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Feel free to click around and see the features your router offers. You could consider enabling parental controls, setting time limits to restrict Internet usage during certain hours, setting a custom DNS server, and performing a variety of other tweaks. If you’re interested in other things you can do with your router, check out our list of useful options you may find buried in your router’s web interface.

Bear in mind that not every router will have every feature, and different routers have different layouts, so a setting may appear elsewhere in the interface. Use the Help features built into your router’s interface or consult its manual for more information on exactly what a setting does. You can generally download manuals in PDF form from a router manufacturer’s website, so you don’t actually have to dig up any old boxes or papers to get this information.



You’ll find interesting status information on your router, too. For example, you should be able to see the list of computers and devices connected to your Wi-Fi network from here. Just looks for a Status page — this information may be on a general Status page, or a Wi-Fi Status page.



Once you’ve figured out your router’s IP address and password, you can create a bookmark and maybe even save the password in your browser. You can then quickly get to your router’s web interface in the future if you ever need to make more changes.

USB 2.0 vs. USB 3.0: Should You Upgrade Your Flash Drives?








New computers have now been coming with USB 3.0 ports for years. But just how much faster is USB 3.0? Will you see a big speed improvement if you upgrade your old USB 2.0 flash drives?

USB 3.0 devices are backwards compatible with USB 2.0 ports. They’ll function normally, but only at USB 2.0 speeds. The only downside is that USB 3.0 devices are still a bit more expensive.
Theoretical Speed Improvements

USB is a standard and defines maximum “signaling speeds” for communicating across a USB port. The USB 2.0 standard offers a theoretical maximum signaling rate of 480 megabits per second, while USB 3.0 defines a maximum rate of 5 gigabits per second. In other words, USB 3.0 is theoretically more than ten times faster than USB 2.0.

If the comparison ended here, upgrading would be a no brainer. Who wouldn’t want their USB drives to be ten times faster?

In reality, this standard just defines the maximum transmission rate of data through a USB port. Devices will have other bottlenecks. For example, USB drives will be limited by the speed of their flash memory.

If you’re not sure whether you have USB 3.0 ports, just look at the USB ports themselves — USB 3.0 ports are generally colored blue inside. Many computers have both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports. In the below photo, the port on the left is USB 2.0 and the port on the right is USB 3.0.


Real-World Benchmarks

Nevermind the theory, let’s look at how USB 3.0 flash drives actually perform in the real world. So just how much faster are USB 3.0 flash drives than USB 2.0 drives? Well, bear in mind that will depend on the specific drive.

There are quite a few benchmarks out there, but Tom’s Hardware’s 2013 test of USB 3.0 thumb drives is particularly recent and comprehensive. The test also includes a few USB 2.0 drives, which are at the bottom of the charts at between 7.9 MB/s to 9.5 MB/s in write speed. The USB 3.0 drives they tested go from 11.4 MB/s all the way up to 286.2 MB/s.

What’s really interesting here is the huge variation in speeds. The worst USB 3.0 drive was faster than the USB 2.0 drives, but only by a tiny bit. The best USB 3.0 drive was over 28 times faster.

Unsurprisingly, the slowest drives were the cheapest, while the faster ones are more expensive. The fastest drive seems to achieve its speed by using “four channels of flash” memory instead of a single one. This is obviously more expensive.


Price

Price is still a huge factor here. Many USB 2.0 flash drives are super cheap — for example, you can pick up an 8 GB USB 2.0 flash drive for under $10 on Amazon. 4 GB flash drives can often be found on sale for $5.

In comparison, USB 3.0 drives are more expensive. The fastest USB 3.0 drives will also be the most expensive ones. You may have to shell out $40 or more to see a really significant speed improvement.

You’ll need to ask yourself how much you want to spend and what you’ll use the drive for. Do you just want a small, cheap drive for occasionally moving documents around? USB 2.0 is fine for that. On the other hand, if you want a drive for frequent use and speed is critical, particularly if you’re transferring large files around, you’ll probably want a USB 3.0 drive.

Bear in mind that just because a drive is USB 3.0 doesn’t mean it’s all that much faster. At the moment, Amazon is selling a 16 GB USB 3.0 flash drive for just $15. However, reviews indicate that it performs at similar speeds to USB 2.0 drives. You’ll have to spend more for an actual speed improvement.


Look at Drive-Specific Benchmarks

USB 3.0 allows for much faster transfer speeds, but not every drive will take advantage of that. Other factors, such as the speed of the flash memory inside the drive, are critical.
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If you’re looking for a good, fast USB drive for serious use — and not the cheapest $5 drive — you should look up benchmarks ahead of time and determine just how fast your drive of choice is. Don’t just believe the manufacturer’s quoted speed rate, as manufacturers often give you the most exaggerated numbers to mislead you — look up independent benchmarks on your own.

Bear in mind that many types of devices won’t perform faster just because they use USB 3.0. If you use a USB mouse and keyboard, you won’t see any sort of input speed improvement by moving to USB 3.0. Of course, eventually USB 3.0 will take over and all devices will use USB 3.0 or newer. There’s no harm in having such devices be USB 3.0 — especially given the backwards compatibility — but there’s no sense in paying extra for that. You can plug USB 2.0 devices into USB 3.0 ports, too.

How to Add Gadgets Back to Windows 8.1







Do you miss the gadgets from Windows 7 now that you’re using Windows 8.1? There’s no official way to re-install them, but there is a way to get them back using a third-party, free utility called 8Gadgetpack.

Installing 8Gadgetpack adds a sidebar to the Desktop in Windows 8.1 to which you can add gadgets you had in Windows 7 without having to download them again.

Download 8Gadgetpack using the link at the end of the article. 8Gadgetpack must be installed as administrator. Because the installation file is an MSI package, you must add an Install as administrator to the context menu in Windows Explorer.

Once you have added the Install as administrator option, right-click on the .msi file and select the option.



Follow the instructions in the Setup Wizard. On the final setup screen, select the Show gadgets when setup exits to automatically start 8Gadgetpack. Click Finish.



A popup displays providing some useful information about use of the sidebar and gadgets.



There are some default gadgets already placed on the sidebar, such as a clock and weather gadget. To add more gadgets, click the plus button at the top of the sidebar.



A dialog box displays with three pages of gadgets. To add a gadget to the sidebar, double-click on the desired gadget or drag the gadget to the sidebar.



To close the gadget dialog box, click the Close (X) button in the upper, right corner of the dialog box.



Once you start adding gadgets, your sidebar may get a bit crowded. You can drag some gadgets off the sidebar onto the Desktop, if desired. To do this, move your mouse over the top, right edge of the gadget. A small toolbar displays. Click and drag the dotted box on the toolbar to move the gadget to where you want it on the Desktop.



Some gadgets may have options that allow you to customize the gadget. If a gadget has a wrench button on its toolbar, click on it to access the gadget’s options.



The gadget becomes a thumbnail and a dialog box displays with various options for customizing the gadget. For example, we can set the location for the weather gadget and select which weather service to use for the data on the Location tab of the dialog box.



We can also set different looks for the gadget, items to show and not show, the refresh rate, and the units to use on the Settings tab of the dialog box.



The Parameters tab on the weather gadget allows you to specify additional information to show on the gadget. Click OK to save your changes and close the dialog box. The gadget returns to normal size.



Some gadgets may also have a button to change the size of the gadget. For example, we’ll make the weather gadget wider by clicking the Larger size button on its toolbar.



The bottom part of the gadget is moved to the right of it. To return the gadget to normal size, click the same button, which is now the Smaller size button.



8Gadgetpack also provides a tool for accessing open programs. Click the Window-Manager button on the toolbar at the top of the sidebar.



Thumbnails of open programs display on the sidebar. Move the mouse over a thumbnail to view the open program. Click on a thumbnail to activate that program. Click the Window-Manager button again to display the gadgets on the sidebar again. This is similar to one of the methods of switching tasks on the Start screen in Windows 8.1 we previously described.



The sidebar itself has options, as well. Right-click on any empty space on the sidebar and select Options from the popup menu.



The Orientation tab on the Options dialog box allows you to specify the location of the sidebar and other display options.



The View tab allows you to specify how to align the gadgets, where to show buttons, along with a few other options.



If you miss the gadgets from Windows 7, 8Gadgetpack is a good option for easily obtaining the common gadgets without having to download all of them again separately.


Download Gadget:
http://8gadgetpack.net/